A few more nature-based coatings have made appearances or received acclaim in the marketplace lately, and we thought they were definitely worth mentioning.

Land Ark Natural Wood Finish – Land Ark NW, LLC

This company (based in Blodgett, Oregon) makes beautiful interior and exterior finishes from all natural ingredients such as tung oil, linseed oil, citrus solvent, pine rosin, and beeswax.  They have several finishes for different applications – all without harmful chemicals and drying agents.  For exterior applications, customers can request added Zinc Oxide UV protection or a chemical mildew inhibitor.  This wood finish is used extensively (and sold) by The Joinery in Portland, and I can honestly attest to how it brings forth the natural beauty and luster of the wood grain inherent in each piece.  Check out their site:  http://www.landarknw.com

AFM Safecoat Naturals

AFM Safecoat (based in San Diego) has been making quality finishes for chemically sensitive and health conscious customers for 25 years.  They are our go-to recommendation for paint that seals in off-gassing and odors from prior finishes.  Now they have introduced a plant-based  paint that is biodegradable and breathable, with options to tint with zero-VOC pigments into any color in their repertoire.  We tested this paint on a basement wall, and were very pleased with the limited odor, thickness of the paint, and ease of application.  It was also a very quick clean up! Paired with the AFM Naturals High Performance Primer, we give this product a healthy thumbs up.   Check out AFM Naturals here:  www.afmsafecoat.com

PolyWhey – Vermont Natural Coatings

Vermont Natural Coatings (based in Hardwick, VT) has both floor and furniture finish made with whey as its bonding agent.  Whey is a byproduct of the cheese-making industry that would otherwise enter the waste stream.  Though PolyWhey does contain some hazardous drying agents, it has relatively low VOC content when compared to competing clear finishes.  We have not tried this product directly, but feedback from local distributors and customers has all been good -  easy to apply, low in odor, and durable.  In fact, PolyWhey was voted one of BuildingGreen’s top-ten building products of 2008.  Read about them online:  www.vermontnaturalcoatings.com

American Clay Enjarre

American Clay (based in Albuquerque, NM) has long been one of Greenhaven’s favorite products, due to its low toxicity, breathability,  ease of repair, restorative feel, and stunning aesthetic.  They have recently released a sprayable product called Enjarre, making the clay more affordable for larger commercial applications.  Enjarre is sprayed on in a single coat, followed by a second coat of finish clay plaster that is trowelled on.   Application instructions and more on American Clay’ website:  www.americanclay.com.   See Portland’s Traditional Natural Plaster Company applying Enjerre below, and click on the pics for a link to their website:

Traditional Natural Plaster Company applying Enjarre in a local Portland home.

Trowelling on the second coat.

All in all, some natural finishes exist on the market today that compete with their synthetic counterparts in durability and performance.  The market demands a high standard, but it is not necessary to sacrifice your health or that of the planet to get the beautiful and lasting results you are looking for.

You’ve probably seen the ads from your local energy provider about incentives offered for ductless heat pumps (sometimes referred to as “mini-splits”), or heard from a neighbor about how much they like their new ductless heat pump… but what are these things?  Why would you want one?  Ductless heat pump technology has been around for a long time, but recent technological refinements have made these systems extremely energy efficient to operate and affordable to install.  Ductless heat pumps work by expanding or compressing refrigerant to deliver hot or cold air to the indoor area being conditioned.  They are able to extract heat from the air in the winter and cold from the air in summer.  Think of how your refrigerator is cold inside and hot by the outside coils.  In the summer, you would want to blow the cold air from inside of your refrigerator into your home, right?  Just reverse that in the winter when you would love all that warm air from the coils to be circulated throughout your living spaces.  This is basically the way that the ductless heat pump works.  The system is comprised of an outdoor unit (about 1/3 the size of a central AC unit) and one or more indoor units (about the size of four shoe boxes stacked end to end).  They are mounted high on the wall in places that would provide good airflow.  Outdoor units and indoor units are connected only by the refrigerant lines and a power cable.  There is no ducting used with these heat pumps, as they rely on strong variable-speed fans to circulate air quietly.  We have seen many of these units in action, and they are adept at providing consistent heating and cooling to homes with a variety of floorplans.  The indoor units are controlled via remote control, which provides an easy way to regulate temperature, fan speed, and humidity.  Yes, that is right, ductless heat pumps can also dehumidify!

Here in the Pacific Northwest, these units cost approximately $4,000 and up to install.  Right now there are many incentives and rebates that can help offset much of this cost.  With all these benefits, and low cost to install and operate – you might be wondering why this technology is just starting to catch on in North America.  We have found that the only reason homeowners hesitate to install ductless systems is that they are different than what they are accustomed to.  It seems we are somewhat stuck in the old paradigm of ducted furnaces and air conditioners with wall mounted thermostats.  The indoor ductless units look and function in a different way – they look a bit like a long, narrow air conditioner that is mounted high on the wall, compared to more traditional vents and returns that are located on the floor, ceiling, and walls of the home.  The use of a remote control vs. a wall mounted thermostat takes a little getting used to as well.  Every one of the homeowners we have visited with ductless systems have quickly gotten used to this new way of heating and cooling their homes.  The wall units visually disappear into the background in a few days, and the remote quickly becomes your new best friend… particularly during these intense heat waves we have been getting in the Pacific Northwest.

Along with increased comfort, ductless heat pumps save a good deal of energy – especially compared to traditional electric heat sources such as cadet heaters, ceiling cable, and baseboard heat.  We have seen percentage savings in the double digits, when comparing energy use year to year.  For more detailed information, contractor referrals, and incentive information, we recommend a visit to http://goingductless.com/ .

We have just updated our website with expanded services and credentials. Check it out: www.greenhavenconsulting.com.

Before we delve into specifics, a good place to start is to look for the WaterSense label.  WaterSense is an EPA-sponsored program that provides third-party laboratory testing to ensure toilets are meeting rigorous standards for performance and efficiency.  Only those that make it through the testing process with good results are eligible for the WaterSense label.  A list of applicable models is also available on the WaterSense website.

In addition to the WaterSense label, another great resource is a regularly updated report on the performance of popular toilet models by Veritec Consulting Inc. and Koeller and Company.  If you want to see how your own toilet rates, all 65 pages of the latest edition from January 2009 is available here.  Veritec and Koeller and Company also have a simpler 10 page rating report on just WaterSense toilets at the same link, if you prefer to choose a toilet from only those options.

Dual Flush

Many manufacturers are now catching on to the toilet trend that has been used in Australia and New Zealand for years – the dual flush.  This toilet has two buttons – one for liquids (a half-flush) and one for solids (full flush).  No more “if it’s yellow let it mellow, if it’s brown flush it down.”  The two flushes take care of your dilemma without the stagnant odors.  So, what to look for in a dual flush model?

1. Trap Size - This refers to the size of the hole the waste has to get through when the toilet is flushed.  Trap sizes can range, but the standard diameter is between 2 1/8″ and 2 1/4.”   Logic would tell us that the larger the trap, the fewer the clogs.  This is often the case… as with the new American Standard Champion  with a 3″ trap, and Caroma toilets with a 4″ trap.   Aaron has ditched his plunger after years of certainty that his Caromas will not clog.   All in all, we’d recommend going with a large trap… unless it’s a Toto.  which brings me to the next point.

2. Flush mechanism – The Toto Aquia is one of the most popular dual flush models on the market today.  Though it has a standard size trap, Toto has perfected (and patented) the physics of their trapway, increasing the velocity of the flush.  These models are the preferred brand for Mike at Black Cat Plumbing here in Portland. According to him, the Totos offer better performance over other brands, meaning fewer callbacks and higher customer satisfaction.  In addition to the flush itself, talk to your salesperson about durability of the interior parts – how sturdy are the components?  How often do they need to be replaced?

3. Water Level – Every dual flush model has a slightly different water level in the bowl.  This may seem like no big deal… and to some it isn’t.  However, what I call the “kerplunk factor” must be taken into account when choosing the correct product for your toiletary needs.  When something with mass falls from a longer distance, the splash is intensified, if you catch my drift.  There also tends to be a larger amount of “debris” on the sides of the bowl when the water level is very low – though the high intensity flush takes care of most of it, there can be some lingering remains.

This Caroma Sydney Smart 305 ranks very high for performance, and has a lower gpf (1.28g for full flush and .8g for half flush). Most dual flush models are 1.6g and .9g

High Efficiency

With water usage reaching epic proportions in this country, many manufacturers are responding to the need for toilets that use less water per flush than the 1.6gpf our national code requires.  There are several models on the market now that are labeled as High Efficiency Toilets, or HET’s, meaning they use at least 20% less water per flush – usually 1.28 or 1.1gpf.  (This category includes the dual flush models, but I have separated those out for differentiation in this post.)  When looking for a single flush toilet that uses as little H2O as possible, many of the same rules apply.  Look for a larger trap, a strong flush, and talk to the salesperson about any problems that each particular model may have.  Again, refer to Veritec and Koeller’s  Maximum Performance (MaP) of WaterSense High-Efficiency Toilet Fixtures (HETs) for specifics on the model that’s right for you.

In many parts of the country trees are an abundant natural resource, and when used wisely they can provide a long-term source for many building materials.  Locally grown and selectively harvested trees can be milled into dimensional lumber, flooring, trim, furniture, and other products for our homes.  There are a number of certification programs that have been established to help consumers determine the true sustainability of their purchases.   The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI) are the largest wood certification programs in the U.S forestry market.  In the Pacific Northwest, we are also lucky to have the Healthy Forests, Healthy Communities (HFHC) partnership to promote economically, environmentally and socially responsible wood products.

The Forest Stewardship Council is an independent, third party group that monitors and certifies wood products that have been produced under strict guidelines.  They strive to maintain a balance between environmental, economic and social sustainability.  An FSC certified forest has to be visited by a team of experts who evaluate all of these elements prior to certification.  Once certified, a “tracking number” is established.  Much as we track a shipment through the post, we can use this chain-of-custody number to view the path of the wood from the forest through milling, processing, packaging and retail, to the end user.  Each entity that handles the wood must also be certified, in order to provide verification that non-certified wood has not been combined with certified wood.  FSC also certifies wood products containing mixed-source and recycled wood and/or paper. FSC has long been considered the premier and most valid forest certification program.

The Sustainable Forestry Initiative started out as a self-certification for companies in the wood products industry.  It has, however, undergone significant change in recent years.  Due to SFI’s recent efforts to shift away from industry funding and increase standards, they are on track to achieving a much more credible and robust program.  It works in much the same way as FSC, and even has its own certification number system to follow the path of the wood from the forest to the consumer.  The one area that has received criticism, when compared to FSC, is that SFI lacks a clear and detailed set of guidelines for achieving certification.  This can be seen as a benefit to some, however, as it allows more flexibility and could be more inclusive to newcomers in the sustainable forestry industry.

Here in the Pacific Northwest, we have another source of sustainably harvested wood products, the Healthy Forests, Healthy Communities Partnership. HFHC is a part of Sustainable Northwest, an organization that works to support and encourage a locally based, sustainable economy in the region.  HFHC helps make the connections between landowners with sustainably grown trees and the marketplace for products made from those trees.  HFHC does have a group certificate for FSC chain of custody, which those members with FSC status can use, but not all of its wood is FSC certified.  HFHC is a great example of a “hybrid” supply of wood.  Some of it is coming from FSC sources, some from selective thinning, some from standing dead or reused wood, and some from very small forest land that is planted with a diverse selection of species.  For many people, the personal connections that are such a strong part of HFHC override the need to know that the wood is “certified.”  Because HFHC is a regional organization, it is possible to develop personal relationships with some of its members.  Knowing where your wood is coming from and the methodologies used by those landowners allows a personal connection and reverence for the products they produce.  In some cases, this connection may preclude any necessity for a more widely known certification.

Another noteworthy option for wood products is salvaged or recycled wood.  Using flooring that has been removed, re-milled, and reinstalled is a great way to minimize environmental impacts.  In some cities, there are places to purchase salvaged and re-graded framing lumber and larger timbers.  This wood typically does not carry any type of certification.

Though all certifications are not created equal, some can provide the buyer with a sense of affirmation that the wood has been harvested in a more sustainable fashion.  However, the knowledge that comes with being involved with our local and regional sustainable economy, and the ability to create something beautiful from recycled wood is proof that certification is not necessarily the only choice for environmentally friendly wood.

There are many other reasons to choose wool carpet over synthetic carpet.  Wool is a renewable resource that comes from shearing sheep in several countries. U.S. carpet manufacturers primarily source their wool from Australia, New Zealand, Greece and other European regions.  The wool fiber itself is naturally hydrophobic, meaning it moves and repels moisture.  While this might sound unrelated, think for a moment about how most stains occur – a wet substance like mud or wine gets dropped on the floor.  With wool carpet, it is usually a simple clean-up by blotting the wet stain with a damp towel to absorb the material that is sitting on the carpet.  With a stain on synthetic carpet, the first place people turn is to a cleaning product, which often contains toxic chemicals.

In order to perform more like wool, synthetic carpet is often treated with a stain repellant.  Over time, this repellant wears off and the carpet can start to look dingy, and never be able to be restored to looking like new.  Wool carpet can look good throughout its life, and is able to be maintained to a higher standard of cleanliness.  It seems like most synthetic carpet can perform well for 3-7 years, where wool carpet performs for closer to 20 years (dependent upon use, i.e. residential or commercial).  When people are replacing wool, it is typically due to style change rather than an issue with the appearance and performance of the carpet.

Wool carpet is also beneficial for indoor air quality.  The wool is naturally fire resistant, absorbs airborne pollutants and does not harbor dust mites or odors.  Since the wool fiber is natural, the only synthetic material in wool carpet is usually a latex, polypropylene, or polyethylene backing.  Compared to a carpet that is made from 100% synthetics, a wool carpet with synthetic backing is made from closer to 10%-20% chemical components.  Fewer chemicals usually equate to less potential for off-gassing.

The main reason to consider using a synthetic carpet would be if initial cost were an overriding factor.  While it is true that many wool carpets are available at little or no price premium over mid- to high-grade synthetics, there is still a significant difference if you are looking at prices of leading synthetics.  Synthetic carpet can start at prices as low as $1.48/sf, while 100% wool costs $2.79 and up.  It is important to remember, however, that this is not necessarily an “apples to apples” comparison.  The lowest price wool carpet will most likely outperform the lowest price synthetic carpet, so this cost factor ONLY applies with initial cost and not looking at the cost over the life of the carpet.

Now we’ll focus a bit more on wool carpet.  As mentioned, wool comes from a number of different countries.  Each region yields wool that is unique, and reflective of the sheep that typically live there.  New Zealand and Australian sheep have a reputation for providing more soft and uniform wool.   Wool from sheep in Greece typically is a bit more coarse and has variations in color and texture throughout.  Irish and British wool is usually somewhere in between these two – it can be more uniform than the Greek, but not generally as soft as the New Zealand/Australian.   Since it is a bit off-subject to pinpoint regions and the sheep that graze there, we recommend that you look at all the options.  One does not necessarily perform better than the other, but they do look and feel quite a bit different.

Wool carpet is typically treated with Permethrin to guard against damage from insects.  Permethrin is a synthetic version of Pyrethrum, a natural insecticide that made from the dried flowers of chrysanthemums.  Very small amounts are used, and are not typically a health concern for humans or animals in contact with the carpet.

When looking at carpet style, there are basically two options of pile.  The pile is the tuft of wool that you are in contact with.  A cut pile looks like tightly packed grass.  A quality cut pile should be very dense, since a loose cut pile carpet will not perform well over time.  Loop pile is, as you may expect, made up of many loops that are woven together.  Many people are familiar with “Berber” style carpet, which is traditionally a medium sized loop in a heathered color palette of tans, browns, and beiges.  In general, a loop pile or combination of loop and cut pile in a heathered tone will show less wear over time, due to variation that can hide stains and wear patterns.  A dense, high quality cut pile will be very plush and luxurious, but is most appropriate for bedrooms or shoes-off households, as the smooth homogeneous texture will show wear before a style with more variation.

If you are looking for the most sustainable and natural wool carpet, we recommend you take a look at Nature’s Carpet (http://www.naturescarpet.com/) or Earthweave (http://www.earthweave.com/).  These two carpet lines are literally 100% natural and biodegradable.  They use no synthetic chemicals, dyes, Permethrin, or backing.  The face fiber is wool that has been sorted by color.  One layer of backing is natural latex, and the second layer of backing is natural jute.  These carpets are a good option for people who have sensitivities to chemicals and odors, though should still be tested in the home before installation like any other carpet, as some have allergies to natural latex as well as synthetics.

The next decision to make is what type of carpet pad to choose.  This will depend on a number of factors, such as price point, natural vs. synthetic, and whether you have radiant floor heat.   In general, wool carpet manufacturers recommend a felted pad underneath their carpet, as it will hold up to wear much longer than a foam pad will.  There are several types of synthetic felted pad on the market that are made from recycled carpet fiber, as well as several natural felted wools.  The synthetic pad is lower in price, but will contain any additives that were added to the former carpet fiber it is comprised of.  If reducing chemicals in your home is your aim, wool is still the best option for pad.  If you are looking for the optimal pad for your radiant floor heating system, it pays to assess what is recommended by the carpet manufacturer, so any warranties will not be voided with choice of an improper pad.

Once you have selected your healthy and durable new wool carpet and pad, you will want to keep it looking its best for the long term.  Regular vacuuming with a quality vacuum is the best maintenance that you can do.   In fact, some carpet manufacturers recommend vacuuming your new wool carpet every day for the first couple weeks to minimize the normal “shedding” that happens over its life.  Be careful not to use a vacuum that is too aggressive – some carpet companies will not warranty their carpet if a vacuum is strong enough to whisk away fiber with an over-achieving beater bar.  Please refer to information from the manufacturer of your carpet for cleaning details.

The easiest and most important thing that you can do to keep wool carpet clean is to remove dirt and stains quickly and regularly.  If muddy paw prints appear on your carpet – simply let them dry and vacuum!  Wet stains can be cleaned by blotting up the affected area and cleaning with mild cleaners.  Wools of New Zealand has a very handy cleaning guide on their website – http://www.woolsnz.com/en_us/display.asp?sID=2&mID=34.  Wool carpet can be professionally cleaned as needed, but it has been our experience that this is needed every 5-10 years to fully rejuvenate the carpet.

Clearly, carpet can be a combination of comfort and sustainability!

Ellie enjoys relaxing on chemical free wool carpet!

Most of the builders, realtors, and house-flippers we know say the same thing… granite sells.  We know – there is not much that compares to the natural patterns and uniqueness of every slab… and the fact that cool stone is a perfect workspace to roll out pastries and pizza dough is hard to dispute.  But what are the environmental and health impacts of stone countertops?

1. Distance traveled. There are a few granite-mining US states, but the majority of natural stone sold comes from Brazil, India, and China.  Stone is a heavy material, making shipping costly and increasing global pollution.  If you wish to buy stone for your remodel, perhaps choose one from the closest state to you.
2. Toxic sealers.  Stone is porous and will stain if greasy or pigmented foods sit for a while.  To help with this, your counter should be sealed with stone sealer every 6 months or so.  Most sealers are toxic and filled with chemicals that can off-gas into your home.  If you absolutely must have your lovely stone, look into a sealer that is a little less toxic than the rest.  Here are two options (but as always, test in inconspicuous areas first): Miracle Cover (http://www.miraclecoverinc.com), and Safecoat Mexeseal (http://www.afmsafecoat.com/products.php?page=2)
3. Radon.  The July issue of the NY Times revealed alarming results about granite testing much higher for radon and radiation than EPA recommends in the home.  Granite contains uranium, which releases radon when it breaks down.  See the full article at: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/24/garden/24granite.html
4. Lastly, check out what a quarry looks like.  We are taking a material that has been part of the earth’s crust for potentially millions of years.  It cannot be replaced in fathomable lifetimes.

Okay, now we’ll discuss some options that may still be aesthetically pleasing to you, without such a large environmental impact.  I have undoubtedly left some out, due to the rapid development of new materials and the varying levels of “green” manufacturers tout in their new products.  The following are products we are familiar with, or that are created by companies that seem to really walk their green talk.  All pricing is for countertop material only, without installation:

Butcher Block (Sustainably harvested or from reclaimed wood) - Butcher block is a great option for a countertop.  Many companies now make butcher block from reclaimed or salvaged wood, or from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)-Certified wood.  Pricing varies – check with local suppliers (usually from $35-$100/sf).

• Pros:  can be custom made to specific dimensions, grain, and type of wood; can be sanded down for generations to reveal a new subsurface underneath; fully biodegradable if a natural finish is used; all natural; does not contribute harmful chemicals to indoor air quality or during manufacture; heat resistant; beautiful variation in grain and character; reclaimed wood usually has an interesting story.
• Cons:  requires regular maintenance with oil finish; may not be the ideal option for around the sink; some woods may be pricey.

EcoTop – Made from FSC-certified fiber that is a 50/50 blend of bamboo and post-consumer recycled paper, bound with a water based resin.  EcoTop requires regular maintenance with oil finish, pricing is in the $65/sf range.  Made in Tacoma, Washington.

• Pros:  available in 10 earth-tone colors; durable and hard with a warm feel of wood; very low water absorption; sleek, polished look; somewhat simple fabrication and installation.
• Cons:  may scratch like a hard tropical wood; water-based copolymer resin is not biodegradable – your counter may be around for millennia.

Icestone – 1.25″ thick slabs made from 100% recycled glass and non-toxic pigments in a cement matrix.  Pricing is in the $100 – $150/sf range.  Made in Brooklyn, New York.

• Pros:  contains no petrochemicals; 29 different colors; factory recycles greywater, uses natural light and soy-based lubricants in machinery, and has a goal of zero waste in the manufacturing process; heat resistant; cradle-to-cradle certification.
• Cons:  any cement-based or natural stone countertop has a propensity to stain from oils or etch from contact with acidic foods – careful sealing and maintenance required;  pricing keeps Icestone from being a viable option for most.

Marmoleum – a brand of natural linoleum made from linseed oil, wood flour, plant rosin, limestone, organic pigments, and jute backing.  It is usually used for flooring material, but can be an economical choice for a countertop.  Pricing for material ranges from $3-$6/sf, produced in various European countries.

• Pros:  affordable, hundreds of colors to choose from, simple installation on plywood substrate; repairable (within reason).
• Cons:  somewhat soft in comparison to other options, not heat or scratch resistant; requires trim on counter edges, making a seam.

Paperstone – made from recycled paper or cardboard in a petroleum-free, phenolic resin base.  It comes in “Original” and “Certified,”  Original is made with 100% post-consumer recycled cardboard, Certified is made with FSC-certified 100% post-consumer standard office paper.  Regular maintenance with oil finish is recommended.  Available in thicknesses of .75″, 1″, and 1.25.” Prices range from $30-$45/sf, depending on thickness.  Made in Hoquiam, Washington.

• Pros:  available in multiple colors, durable and hard with a warm feel of wood; low water apsorption; sleek, polished look; somewhat simple fabrication and installation; heat resistant to roughly 350 degrees.
• Cons:  may scratch like a hard tropical wood; not biodegradable or recyclable; resin may yellow over time – warm tones don’t reveal ambering as much, choose colors accordingly.

Squak Mountain Stone: made with recycled paper, recycled glass,  and post-industrial fly-ash in a cement base.  Sold by the slab in a variety of sizes, 5 colors, and 1.5″ thickness.  Material may be heat resistant, but the finish is not.  Pricing ranges from $45-$70/sf.  Made in Woodinville, Washington.

• Pros:  materials for manufacture are sourced from within 130 miles of factory; unique look with character; much lighter than a solid cement top; organic look makes maintenance and touch-ups DIY-friendly.
• Cons:  no flex strength – installation requires careful handling; slabs are hand-poured, meaning each one may vary in thickness and color tone; seams are difficult to blend in; may etch or stain over time (like any cement-based material) – regular application of finish required.

Vetrazzo: made from 85% recycled glass from curbside bins, traffic lights, stemware, etc. in a cement base.  Slabs are manufactured in Richmond, California in slabs that are 1.25″ thick.  Pricing is $75-$120/sf.

• Pros:  high recycled content; factory uses natural daylighting and recycles greywater; socially responsible; many color choices; heat resistant and durable; recyclable – slabs can be taken back to the manufacturing facility to be made into new material.
• Cons:  cement base makes Vetrazzo vulnerable to stain and patina between the glass – sealing (about once a year) required;  pricing is beyond the means of many.

All in all, there are many options on the market that can provide stylish, durable alternatives to the granite-mania that has overtaken the countertop market.  Right now the largest obstacle seems to be price point.  As with most building materials, the more people that demand green countertop options, the more companies that will make them… and the more competitive the price will become.  Let’s celebrate the small steps we are taking, and do what we can to push manufacturers toward a healthier, safer, more balanced planet.